When I found a Donkey Kong arcade machine, I just had to have. But it had this horrible black paint around the bottom. WHY? So I though I could just paint over it. After searching Internet for the Donkey Kong color codes, I came up empty.
BUT lucky for me the color continues on the inside of the cabinet. I took a chisel and hammer. Got a sample and took it to Lowes for a color match.
It turned out pretty close, but I wasn’t happy with the look after it dried. Someone on the KLOV forums mentioned to me that it could be a laminate and to see if I could just strip all of the old paint off!
So I got some GOOF OFF and gave it a try.
Here is my steps in removing the two coats of paint. MY Donkey Kong Blue and the Black on the bottom.
OMG it turned out awesome!!! Yet another arcade lesson I learned early on.
Here’s the before and after!
I did repaint the bottom baseboards black and also replace the buttons and T-Modeling back to the Nintendo white! (plus some sideart, I’ll show that next)
This worked for ME, it may NOT work for you
I will do a short repair log on my $200 Tutankham arcade machine. I bought it in October and it sat in the shop all Winter until March it was starting to warm up enough to go work on it. Here’s a list of what I knew was wrong and needed fixed:
- No image (Sampo monitor)
- Doesn’t play blind
- No glow on the monitor
- The power board had burnt pins
- Control Panel overlay badly warped
- Marquee broken
- Marquee light was all burnt up and melted
- Side art ripped
So I start by trying to fix the power, I removed the Stern power supply board (PS-1200) and replaced it with a switcher power supple and a kit from the Arcadeshop. But still there is no image on the monitor and no sound (not playing blind). I need to fix the monitor, but I couldn’t find all the parts I needed for this Sampo monitor, not even from Bob Roberts, so a friend actually had one he wasn’t using, so I bought it from him. Switched the monitors.
Still not playing and still no sound, but at least I got an image, This one:
Actually that is a GOOD SIGN, the game is trying to do something!
So after reading some tips on KLOV, I knew my -5 (negative 5) voltage was off. After adjusting the +5 and -5 the best I could, I hooked the game back up and got this:
AWESOME – IT’s ALIVE!!!!!!
PLUS here is the Power conversion kit I used from the Arcadeshop
Tutankham was another one of those games I loved playing in the arcades in the early 80’s. It’s was a fun game with bright graphics and two joysticks for control. But it is a hard game. I had been watching craigslist for this one for some time, then this machine came up. It was around $200 because it didn’t work, like most of my games I get from Craigslist, I get them dead and save some bread!!
I needed to replace my Throttle decal on my Afterburner.
So I found something close online and played around with in it Photoshop.
I printed it out then laminated it and put it on the Afterburner!
Here is the graphic if you need one.
I forgot to add Afterburner to my blog here after I purchased it.
It was a great price and I didn’t have any games like this in my arcade.
This was the second real ‘shooter’ I added to the game room. Silent Scope was the first. The game worked when I got it, but was super dirty inside and out!