One of my arcade friends emailed me and said, hey I’ve got this cheap Hang On arcade game for sale, are you interested? Well it came out by Sega in 1987 a little past my prime arcade days, so I had to think about it. So I checked it out and since it was under $200 I bought it. I just want to say that when moving this game it feels like the base is filled with concrete! So I get it home and it does work, but the monitor has lines across the top of the screen. I think I can adjust it out. But after doing a cap kit and adjustment, it just never got perfect.
Here’s a before and after Capkit image. Man that’s not pretty! So, I found another Super Hang-on locally, that had a better monitor BUT no sound. So I switched the monitors. It helped but still was not perfect. I also switched around the better cases. NEXT the long story of fixing this monitor.
The original Vectrex Arcade system was released in 1982. It was such an amazing system but had very bad timing. It came with it’s own monitor, controller and even Mind Storm which was an Asteroids clone. Plus it was PORTABLE. I’ve owned a few of them over the years in my buy and sell phase of old arcade games. I was mostly an Atari 2600 collector, but how could I not add a Vectrex to my collection. Even have one in it’s original box in my collection still. So what’s this news about? It’s the release coming for the iPhone and iPad of the Vectrex Regeneration! It can be played with or without an overlay and will work with the iCade controller. You can get more updates on Twitter.
I was planning on adding a Pole Position to my game room and started looking for one. Then one day I found an old operator that had both a Pole Position and also a Sega Outrun. Well I thought I wanted a Pole Position as that’s what I played in the early 80’s. But when he told me he also had a Sega Out Run for about $50 more, it made start to think. So to refresh my memory, I started to play both again in MAME. It didn’t take me long to realize that Outrun was more fun. I went to check out the Outrun, but the screen had a strange green look to it. I figure it’s just some setting or adjustment and bought it. Later I found out it was NOT just a simple adjustment.. More on that later…
What would I do if I had a blown fuse in my arcade’s monitor chassis? Well a couple of things, first being to make sure it was the correct size and type (Amps, slow blow or fast blow). Next I would likely put in a new one and turn the game back one. Watch the fuse and see if it blows right away or not. If it doesn’t then play your game!!! BUT if your fuse blows, do not keep replacing it with a new one, because it will blow also. It’s time to pull the chassis out of the arcade machine and put it on your test table. The first place I would test in this case is all of the diodes around the fuse. OK now testing a diode is super easy. A diode is like a one way door, it will let current through in one direction and block it from coming back in the other direction. So get out your Multimeter. Set it to ohms, then touch the red lead to one end of the diode and the black lead to the other. It doesn’t matter which. Check the reading, remember and then switch the red and black leads. One way will give you a reading like .850 (maybe .500 to .900) and the other will probably show no reading, because it should be blocked by the diode.. But if you get a reading and the other way is open (OL) then it is a bad diode, I would remove from the board and retest it.
A diode should read relatively low resistance in one direction and very high resistance in the other direction. There are a ton of videos on Youtube on how to properly test a diode. Please watch a few to get a better understanding.
When I get a new game with a non working PCB (Printed Circuit Board) the first thing I will do is to pull all of the socketed chips and clean with a detailing pen. These are great for removing rust or corrosion off of about anything. People even use these to clean ancient coins. Also works amazing on cleaning contact edges. This is the ones I use from Amazon. If you do not have this item buy it and put it in your toolbox.
GET THIS ONE:
To refresh Donkey Kong, is one of my ‘Grail Games’. I had to have it and I way over paid for it. The problem with that, is when I got it home and started playing it, I found many things wrong with it? First thing I address was the crooked screen!
As you see here, the red line is close to level on the cabinet but the game screen is tilted. Funny how I never noticed this when I bought the game, But on the ramps screen it wasn’t as noticeable. OK, so now what. To be honest the fix is actually pretty simple, but could be scary to a new arcade game collector.
So how do you fix this? You must ROTATE the YOKE! The red arrow is pointing to the yoke in the image. Unplug your game. Then there is probably a screw that you need to loosen first. After loosening you should be able to twist the yoke clock wise or counter clock wise. Turn it just slightly. Then turn the game back on and test. If good tighten the screen and you are done.