Tutankham repair

I will do a short repair log on my $200 Tutankham arcade machine. I bought it in October and it sat in the shop all Winter until March it was starting to warm up enough to go work on it. Here’s a list of what I knew was wrong and needed fixed:

  1. No image (Sampo monitor)
  2. Doesn’t play blind
  3. No glow on the monitor
  4. The power board had burnt pins
  5. Control Panel overlay badly warped
  6. Marquee broken
  7. Marquee light was all burnt up and melted
  8. Side art ripped

So I start by trying to fix the power, I removed the Stern power supply board (PS-1200) and replaced it with a switcher power supple and a kit from the Arcadeshop. But still there is no image on the monitor and no sound (not playing blind). I need to fix the monitor, but I couldn’t find all the parts I needed for this Sampo monitor, not even from Bob Roberts, so a friend actually had one he wasn’t using, so I bought it from him. Switched the monitors.

Still not playing and still no sound, but at least I got an image, This one:


Actually that is a GOOD SIGN, the game is trying to do something!
So after reading some tips on KLOV, I knew my -5 (negative 5) voltage was off. After adjusting the +5 and -5 the best I could, I hooked the game back up and got this:



PLUS here is the Power conversion kit I used from the Arcadeshop

My $200 Tutankham

Tutankham Marquee

Tutankham was another one of those games I loved playing in the arcades in the early 80’s. It’s was a fun game with bright graphics and two joysticks for control. But it is a hard game. I had been watching craigslist for this one for some time, then this machine came up. It was around $200 because it didn’t work, like most of my games I get from Craigslist, I get them dead and save some bread!!

Pole Position is ALIVE!

This repair took me over a year from the time I bought this Pole Position at a yard sale for  just $100. The seller said it just stopped working one day! Remember guys it’s NEVER just a fuse, it’s NEVER just a loose wire, not matter how much the seller tries to tell you that. IF IT WAS, don’t you think the seller would’ve fixed it himself?

The Repair

1. F2 is blown it’s a 4amp slow blow right after the bridge rectifier.
2. A Line fuse in the image below is blown, it’s a 25amp, it connects to a ‘~’ on the bridge rectifier.
3. Burnt R29 on the AR board (I know look at the edge connectors (see #4)
4. At least 3 burnt edge connectors.
5. Battery Acid on the CPU board (I’ve removed the battery and neutralized the area)
6. Bad cap at C9 on the CPU board, it’s a 10uf 35v
7. the Bridge Rectifier test bad with my multimeter – (Still Not working)
8. Replace the Bridge Rectifier with a new one from Bob Roberts
9. Replace the Fuse Holder
10. Put in all new fuses
11. More cleaning (remember a mouse used to live in this machine)
12. Replace the burnt R-29 resister
13. Re flowed about 80% of the solder on the back of the two AR boards (Still not working)
14. One of the ARII board still had mystery smoke coming from it (NOT R29 or R30)
15. Performed the spider web bulleting proofing (Where you connect all of the 5V and Grounds) Dick Millikan says this is NOT needed and he doesn’t like.
15b Still Not working
16. Sent Boards out to Dick Millikan – found a bad Chip and a few other fixes.
17. Replace the battery with a DALLAS SRAM
18. Installed ARII Repair kits to BOTH ARII boards.
19. ONLY One of the ARII is now working, the other will not adjust the voltage.
20. Replaced the voltage adjust pot
21. Replaced the LM305
22. STILL stuck voltage at 1.3vDC – THROWING this ARII board away!
23. NEW ARII board just arrived and install
24. Adjust voltages to 5.0vDC
25. Saying a pray, plug in the boards WITHOUT the Interface board (not needed)
26. Re-adjust the voltage, since it dropped to 4.5 or 4.6 with the load.
27. Go to the front of the machine and there is the TEST SCREEN!!!!
28. Degauss monitor
29. Adjust Flyback, Brightness, blah, blah, blah

Before the Degauss and adjustments: