Pole Position is ALIVE!

This repair took me over a year from the time I bought this Pole Position at a yard sale for  just $100. The seller said it just stopped working one day! Remember guys it’s NEVER just a fuse, it’s NEVER just a loose wire, not matter how much the seller tries to tell you that. IF IT WAS, don’t you think the seller would’ve fixed it himself?

The Repair

1. F2 is blown it’s a 4amp slow blow right after the bridge rectifier.
2. A Line fuse in the image below is blown, it’s a 25amp, it connects to a ‘~’ on the bridge rectifier.
3. Burnt R29 on the AR board (I know look at the edge connectors (see #4)
4. At least 3 burnt edge connectors.
5. Battery Acid on the CPU board (I’ve removed the battery and neutralized the area)
6. Bad cap at C9 on the CPU board, it’s a 10uf 35v
7. the Bridge Rectifier test bad with my multimeter – (Still Not working)
8. Replace the Bridge Rectifier with a new one from Bob Roberts
9. Replace the Fuse Holder
10. Put in all new fuses
11. More cleaning (remember a mouse used to live in this machine)
12. Replace the burnt R-29 resister
13. Re flowed about 80% of the solder on the back of the two AR boards (Still not working)
14. One of the ARII board still had mystery smoke coming from it (NOT R29 or R30)
15. Performed the spider web bulleting proofing (Where you connect all of the 5V and Grounds) Dick Millikan says this is NOT needed and he doesn’t like.
15b Still Not working
16. Sent Boards out to Dick Millikan – found a bad Chip and a few other fixes.
17. Replace the battery with a DALLAS SRAM
18. Installed ARII Repair kits to BOTH ARII boards.
19. ONLY One of the ARII is now working, the other will not adjust the voltage.
20. Replaced the voltage adjust pot
21. Replaced the LM305
22. STILL stuck voltage at 1.3vDC – THROWING this ARII board away!
23. NEW ARII board just arrived and install
24. Adjust voltages to 5.0vDC
25. Saying a pray, plug in the boards WITHOUT the Interface board (not needed)
26. Re-adjust the voltage, since it dropped to 4.5 or 4.6 with the load.
27. Go to the front of the machine and there is the TEST SCREEN!!!!
28. Degauss monitor
29. Adjust Flyback, Brightness, blah, blah, blah

Before the Degauss and adjustments:

working-1

 

Pole Position Battery Damage

One of the first things to do with a new Pole Position in your collection is to remove the on board battery. Take a look at mine, you can see the corrosion at the end of the battery and starting to spread on the board. Cut off the battery and then neutralize the battery acid.

You can then replace this battery with a Dallas SRAM on location 7E.

pp-pcb3

Pole Position the bridge

I took the boards out of my Pole Position many months ago, it was to inspect and to remove the on board battery. I then decided to send the boards out to the best Pole Position person in the USA by the name of Dick. I sent him the larger ‘Interconnect Board’ that the harness plugs into.

But got an email from Dick asking about the ‘Bridge Connector’. Well I almost had a heart attack. I didn’t remember this. So in a frenzy I went to the shop and searched all over for this item. Of course I have parts and tools all over. Well eventually I found the Bridge Connector and sent it to Dick.

Watch for more updates!

bridge

Pole Position – Hour #2

So tonight after work I put another hour into the Pole Position.

Note, I still have NOT PLUGGED this game in yet. There’s really no reason to yet until a do a few more things. So here is what I did tonight:

1. Replace the Bridge Rectifier with a new one from Bob Roberts
2. Replace the Fuse Holder
3. Put in all new fuses
4. More cleaning (remember a mouse used to live in this machine)
5. Replace the burnt R-29 resister
6. Re flowed about 80% of the solder on the back of the two AR boards

TIP: If you replace the R29 or R30 resistor, solder it raised off of your board.
This way if they burn up again, they will not burn your circuit board.

Pole Position – Hour #1

I plan to document my repair of my new Pole Position.

My first hour was sent doing some cleaning and vacuuming.
Looking over the machine I have these problems so far.

1. F2 is blown it’s a 4amp slow blow right after the bridge rectifier.
2. A Line fuse in the image below is blown, it’s a 25amp, it connects to a ‘~’ on the bridge rectifier.
3. Burnt R29 on the AR board (I know look at the edge connectors (see #4)
4. At least 3 burnt edge connectors.
5. Battery Acid on the CPU board (I’ve removed the battery and neutralized the area)
6. Bad cap at C9 on the CPU board, it’s a 10uf 35v
7. the Bridge Rectifier test bad with my multimeter

I found ALL of the above without even plugging this machine in yet.
First we need to fix a few things before turning it on for the first time.

Yard Sale Pole Position

Here’s my first yard sale find. An Atari Pole Position!

Just $100, but it doesn’t work.. So like all games I buy, they are broken.
I’ve never had a Pole Position before, but trust me I’ve heard how hard they are to keep working. One of the hardest, maybe behind Q*Bert!

I noticed a bunch of seeds falling out of the back. This is a good sign that a mouse is living or was living in your new game. Sure enough when I opened the back there was more. So time to get out the vacuum and start cleaning!!!