Pole Position is ALIVE!

This repair took me over a year from the time I bought this Pole Position at a yard sale for  just $100. The seller said it just stopped working one day! Remember guys it’s NEVER just a fuse, it’s NEVER just a loose wire, not matter how much the seller tries to tell you that. IF IT WAS, don’t you think the seller would’ve fixed it himself?

The Repair

1. F2 is blown it’s a 4amp slow blow right after the bridge rectifier.
2. A Line fuse in the image below is blown, it’s a 25amp, it connects to a ‘~’ on the bridge rectifier.
3. Burnt R29 on the AR board (I know look at the edge connectors (see #4)
4. At least 3 burnt edge connectors.
5. Battery Acid on the CPU board (I’ve removed the battery and neutralized the area)
6. Bad cap at C9 on the CPU board, it’s a 10uf 35v
7. the Bridge Rectifier test bad with my multimeter – (Still Not working)
8. Replace the Bridge Rectifier with a new one from Bob Roberts
9. Replace the Fuse Holder
10. Put in all new fuses
11. More cleaning (remember a mouse used to live in this machine)
12. Replace the burnt R-29 resister
13. Re flowed about 80% of the solder on the back of the two AR boards (Still not working)
14. One of the ARII board still had mystery smoke coming from it (NOT R29 or R30)
15. Performed the spider web bulleting proofing (Where you connect all of the 5V and Grounds) Dick Millikan says this is NOT needed and he doesn’t like.
15b Still Not working
16. Sent Boards out to Dick Millikan – found a bad Chip and a few other fixes.
17. Replace the battery with a DALLAS SRAM
18. Installed ARII Repair kits to BOTH ARII boards.
19. ONLY One of the ARII is now working, the other will not adjust the voltage.
20. Replaced the voltage adjust pot
21. Replaced the LM305
22. STILL stuck voltage at 1.3vDC – THROWING this ARII board away!
23. NEW ARII board just arrived and install
24. Adjust voltages to 5.0vDC
25. Saying a pray, plug in the boards WITHOUT the Interface board (not needed)
26. Re-adjust the voltage, since it dropped to 4.5 or 4.6 with the load.
27. Go to the front of the machine and there is the TEST SCREEN!!!!
28. Degauss monitor
29. Adjust Flyback, Brightness, blah, blah, blah

Before the Degauss and adjustments:

working-1

 

My Pachinko’s

Pachinko machine have a pretty cool look to them, My machines that do not work will probably end up on a wall someday and used a ‘ART’. But one note is that Pachinko machines are surprisingly heavy! Usually around 50lbs. Here are two of my machines.

The RED one is a newer electronic type, the other is much older, but might look nice on my wall.

pach-1 pachinko-2

 

Pachinko Machines

I have a few Pachinko Machines. I had always wanted one from when I was a very young boy. They just looked like so much fun. Heck they must be fun because Japan’s pachinko machines make over $2.2 trillion annually! So I now own three Pachinko Machines. The problem is that I bought two that didn’t work. I figure I can fix arcade and pinball machines. Well the old ones are mostly mechanical and the newer ones have a bunch of PCBs. The problem I found is that you just can’t find the parts you need to fix machines.

Also you can send your machine out to get fixed, but it’s super expensive. Usually around $200 and WAY UP. Heck most Pachinko Machines are worth $100 or LESS. I’ve paid $75, $50 and $25 for each of my machines. There is not much love for Pachinko Machines in the USA.